The following text may have been generated by Optical Character Recognition, with varying degrees of accuracy. Reader beware!

Clothing Economies (Coni'd) costuinery. Only intimate know- ledge of the exact nature of the events reasonably expected to come into her life should deter- mine the outlay of money in each purchase. It is necessary to know the divisions of her life and which of these divisions deâ€" maml the most money. Women of means may indulge in mistakes as they may care- lessly discard failures but a woman with a Small income can- not replace the disappointing garment with immediate new at- tempts but must go through the season bearing the punishment she has brought upon herself by haphazard and indisci'eet buying. In order not to appear ens tirely at odds with her surround- lugs a woman is obliged to fol- low fashion to a certain extent. but it is more important to study her own type and accentuate its attractive features with adapta- tions of prevailing modes; as no attempt at being fashionable can make up for the fact of hen ilig ridiculous. Drop back in the race and by some strange para» dox you will find that you are winning. It pays to select good matcrn ‘ and get on increased ser- \'I e from the wardrobe by giv- ing L‘ill'll garment proper atten- tion, cleaning them carefully, and tnstcfully making thcm over when necessary. Lcurn the best metbnds of pro 'diiig clothing for the fam- ily, keep accounts and use a clothing budget. Study values in textiles to know their Cost and service so that the most enduring may be selected. Learn how to test the quality of cloth. Uso to advantage the clothing and materials already on hand before buying new goods. Have clothing so made or so choose rcarlyetoewear garments that the styles being simple and conservative cannot be too cas- lly dated, anl remodelling later will be an e; ier task. Clothing â€" Remodelling. Care and Cleaning By Miss 13. M. Collins, Clothing Specialist. One of the problems confrontv ing the housewife with varying degrees of concern is the neces- sity of keeping the clothing needs within the bounds of the clothing budget. If the situation is accepted philosophically it will be found that there is a law of compensation even in the renovation and reconstruction of last season's clothes. The conver‘ sion of an unattractive outâ€"of» date garment into a bewitching- 1y lovely one possessing that subtle and elusive thing called style is sure to produce much satisfaction. Many of the beautiful gar- ments of today are the maden overs of yesterday with the idea of eliminating the unfashion- able features and retaining their loveliness and charm. No woman should look with disdain upon the work of remodelling for it is indeed praiseworthy for any- one to give thought and effort to produce attractive garments from materials that have already seen considerable service. This is an art that can be acquired just as much as in making tempting dishes from food left from luncheon or dinner. If there are children in the family there is generally ample opportunity for making over for them the clothes of adults as these articles require very little material and there are ever in favor modes that permit of a combination of two materials with gratifying results. Children will appear to better advantage in well made clothes of old ma- terial than in cheap ready-tu- wear models, and the degree of service will undoubtedly be more satisfactory. In no better way than by an intelligent development and use of clothes can a woman gain the desirable reputation of being re- fined and intelligent, thrifty and resourceful. Ingenuity is clearly demonstrated and developed in a woman’s ability to adapt old gowns to new modes, and the pleasure and satisfaction de» rived from the achievement are not to be denied as they are too valuable to a person's happiness and progress never to be ex- perienced. However, enthusiasm should not be allowed to out weigh good judgment in such matters. It is always well to be sure of a fair measure of suc- cess before putting time and labour on a makeover, which can be done by carefully_analy- Zing the old garment, its _cut and the material and trimming, to put it in condition. In remodelling garments trimn mings play a very important part, it being possible with their aid to create entirely new efâ€" fects. when in vogue, narrow ruffling, pluiting, and puffing are all useful as trimmings. Likewise cording, piping, and sliirred and tucked bands have a period of popularity. Hand embroidery and braiding or braid»bound edges are often em- ployed, and also according to the mode and season, come em- broidery and lace edging and banding, applique, fringe, fur, beads and buttons. The combination of materials offers many advantages in mak- ing over garments. Two differ- ent materials of the same weight or even unequal weight may be used together as also two ma- terials of the same colour, or a plain colour and a striped, check- ed, or figured material. As ex- amples of different materials of similar weight tulle, chiffon, and lace may be combined with satin and as examples of differâ€" ent weights taffeta and satin may be combined with broad- cloth and chiffon. A check, a stripe, or a plaid may be com- bined with plain silk or satin or with plain woollen material in which case the colour of the plain goods should match one of the colours in the check, stripe or plaid. Black and white com- bine with any colour. Current styles will present very few dif- ficulties to the woman who un- derstands garment construction and remodelling will be a simple task once one understands the necessity of good judgment in combining just the right colours and materials in madeâ€"over gar- ments. More discretion being re- quired for make‘overs than for new garments. This phase of the question requires forethought and knowledge of what is con- sid_ered good taste in colours and material combinations. The principal point to remem- ber regarding garments that are much worn is to make as little unnecessary alteration as pos» sible for ripping apart means an expenditure of time and labour and usually unwarranted ex- pense in buying new material. The art of making over lies in disgmsing the fact that the garment is remodelled. The final effect even on much worn gar- merits} should be the mark of in, sPiration and not that of neces» sity. If one feels that they are just old things and therefore unworthy of their best efforts the finished product will very likely'be disappointing. If the material is worth making over, it is worth the effort that would be necessary in making a 179,. fectly new dress. HOME and COUNTRY HOW DOCS Your Program Score? By Emily Giles . To plan and carry out an edu- cational curriculm for a Rural University of over forty-two thousand students organized in- to 1250 study groups, as the 0!}- tario Women’s Institutes are, is no slight undertaking. To do this for the individual group is the most important work of the Branch Board of Directors. I Have you ever tried grading your program according to Uni- versity standards, with a bun- dred per cent maximum? Ans- wer these questions and see where it would stand, in the de- gree of its usefulness to the particular locality, farm or vil~ lage, which it serves. Would it rank in first, second class hon- ours, pass, or “below the line?” 1. Does it keep foremost that the Institute is an educational institution? 4 Not a money raising or charin table organization, but study centres for country homemakers, non - sectarian, non - partisan, which exist by Act of Parlia- ment: for “the dissemination of knowledge relating to domestic economy, household architec- ture, home sanitation, better understanding of the economic and hygienic value of foods, clothing, fuel; the more scienti- fic care and training of children with a view to raising the genâ€" eral standards of health and morals of our people; and the consideration of any problem or the carrying on of any line of work which has for its objects the betterment of the home or conditions surrounding commun» ity life." 2. Is the outlined plan of study balanced and seasonable’.’ Balance should be maintained between the cultural, practical, and social phases of homemak- ing; topics should be dealt with at the appropriate season, and Conventions The success of the Area Con- ventions has been due in no small measure to the efficiency and faithfulness of the local officers. It is considered quite an honour by the Institutes members in general to be chosen Chairman for a Convention Area. The general rule is to make a change in the Chairman» ship, and sometimes the Secre- tary, every two or three years; while in the north country, where they change the location of the Convention nearly every year, the Chairmanship goes to one of the leaders in the dis- trict where the Convention is to be held. At the Conventions in Old Ontario we have often heard the expression of a desire to have the Chairmanship passed on to another leader, without any re- flection or expression of dis- satisfaction with the present officers. We wish to remind the delegates to the Conventions that: it rests with them as to whether or not a change shall be made, for it is quite in order for any official delegate to make a. nomination for Chairman, Secretary-Treasurer, or Mem- ber of the Committee and have it submitted to the convention. conditions vary in different sections of the province, and it must be left to the good judg» ment of those in attendance at the Conventions to determine the policy to be followed. The one convention held in the north country before going to press showed very progressive work and a spirit of helpfulness in a _ seciipn of the province (Temiskaming and Cochrane) where the Institute is so much appreciated and carrying on so effectively. There was no evi- dence of “slipping back" in the work of the Institutes, and the in such a way as to cover the interests of varied tastesend ages. Experience shows this to be achieved best by a well-cho- sen topical roll call, a paper'or address, a short demonstration or exhibit to show how a thing is done, the subjects with names of those taking part being given where at all possible. Consecu» tivo study of one line each year is valuable, as nutrition, gov» ernmeut, laws, current events 3. Is neighborhood talent be- ing discovered and developed? Members and other local people, men and women, should take part according to their dif- ferent abilities, practical, soc1al, executive, professional, literary, musical, without great depend- ence on outside talent. Work should be well distributed among officers and committees. When “a few of us do all the work." it indicates need for more thorough organization and study of what each can contribute. 4. Does the printed program fulfil its purpose? This should give the Institute motto, name of place, of coun- try, date, hour and place of each meeting, topic of roll call, paper, demonstration, names of those taking them and of officers, committee conveners, and tea hostesses for each month, also the ode, so definitely that a stranger would know what it was all about. 5. Does the program include a definite place for the girls'.’ At least one girl should be on the Board of Directors. Girls should take some part in the doings of every month; possibly preside and take entire charge at one meeting, devoted to girls’ interests. To see that they get adequate preparation for future homemaking is an Institute re- sponsibility of prime importance regular program of service is being most liberally supported :by the members in general. Many expressions of apprecia» tiun of “Home and Country" were given. The members generally value the practical nature of the lead- ership and assistance which the Federation is providing, and thanks to this general apprecia- tion and the payment of the an- nual contributions, the finances of the Federation are in a con- dition which will enable it to give further practical assistance Someone Wants to Know Many questions are asked of the departmental workers on various occasions, and we are publishing here a few of those asked at the Summer Series of Meetings 1. How may we increase our membership? We know there are women in our community who need what we have to give them, but it seems almost imn possible to interest them in our work. 2. What would you suggest as being the best method of prev senting the material found in the lesson leaflets on Nutrition? 3. If a branch desires to make a woman a Life Member does the money have to be raised by a special collection, or may it be taken from the branch funds? 4. How can We gel: our mem- bers to answer the roll call with the proper response for the day? ANSWERâ€"The roll call is every member's responsibility. It is_her definite contribution to the interest and variety of the meeting. Few women if counted on for a plate of sandwiches, or cake, wouldldream of appearing at, the meeting without her con- tribution. The roll call provides Just as definitely for some of the members as a sandwich would for some others. It is their September, I933 mental food. If a woman fails to do her share in providing ihi. for her fellownmember she .1 just as culpable as if she fell down in the matter of a take The rest of the members hungi-f for something which she ha.- deliberately withheld from the"; 5‘ How. can we make nui women willing to assume the re. sponsibility of office‘.7 The above questions will be answered in the next issue of Home and Country. Any office, or member who feels capable iii answering any of these ques. tions in such a manner as will be helpful and acceptable to the organization at large may 59nd her reply to the Institute.- Branch, Parliament Buildings Toronto, and the most acceptabld ones will be published in another issue of the bulletin. Report at Dominion Federation A copy of the report of the Eighth Biennial Convention «r the Federated Women’s Indi» totes of Canada, held at Winm» peg, June ‘5th-9th, 1933, is being sent to the Presidents and Secre- taries of Branch and District lil- stitutes. as well as the Chair- men and Secretaries of Convene tion Areas. The officers have been asked to circulate this it» part among the members so far as possible. While all sections of this llc» port will be found of interest. We wish to draw special attention to the address by the retiring Piesident, Mrs. W. F. Cameron: the reports of the various Stami- ing Committees; the address by Dr Helen IMacMurehy, and ihc resolutions passed. I Space does not permit the pub, lication of extracts from this report, but we shall hope to in- clude‘ some of the more helpi‘ul and inspiring in an early l'lllillr ber of “Home and ‘Counbryfl The Passing of Mrs. Todd Many members of the In ti- tutes throughout the PX‘OVllil't? have a vivid recollection of ihe capable and kindly leadership of Mrs. Wm._Todd of Orillia, uh" was our first Provincial PY-s’l' dent and who a little later ire came President of the Domiimin Federation. Mrs. Todd, from the early days of the Institute, took a keen interest and provided splendid leadership in her mm community and county and was active mother worthwhile local undertakings. especially her church, Canadian Club of Orillia and as a member of the sclvuvl board for many years. The solid basis on which the Institutes of Ontario are founded is due in no small measure to the clear- ness of vision and high ideals Of our first Provincial President. Mrs. Todd's keen interest in the Institutes was maintained to the last although she Was not able in the last few years to takc an active part. It is with regret that “‘9 record the passing of Mr. A. E- Walker, life partner of Mrs Walker, the Honorary President for Ontario and also President of the Dominion Federation. llr. and Mrs. Walker have, for many years, been keenly interested in and appreciative of the Women's Institutes, and their clear vision of the essentials in rural life 11:95 been an important factor In maintaining high standards and worthwhile objectives in the local as well as the Provincial work. The late Mr. Walker \ng keenly interested in education in the rural communities and was for many years a local trust99 and exerted a telling influern'E in establishing and expanding the library system in Saltfleet Township. . The sympathy of the Insti- tutes is extended to Mrs. Walker and family and to the famlll’ of the late Mrs. Todd.